Author Topic: Painting Custom Figures - Tips and Tricks?  (Read 3686 times)

Offline exjedi

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Re: painting figures
« Reply #15 on: January 30, 2006, 11:37 PM »
It sounds like you are using enamels. They will never dry. Try using some acrylic paints, and hitting them with a matte sealer afterwords.

It's true enamels and soft plastics don't mix, acrylics is the only way to go.  I use Tamiya flat acrylics myself and the best part about acrylics is they thin and clean up with water, which also means that sealing the items is also the way to go.

Offline hemble

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Re: painting figures
« Reply #16 on: January 31, 2006, 09:53 PM »
Gday mate the other guys are correct enamels are shite on plastic it will always stay tacky and dust will stick to it like flies to sh*t.

Try using  either Games workshop paints or vallejo paints they have the best range of colours and they are flat colours.

Ron

Offline BrentS

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Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
« Reply #17 on: February 3, 2006, 04:12 PM »
So New Question of the week.  Explain the difference between dry brushing and washing as painting techniques.  Can you provide examples of when you would use one or the other.  I think I know the answers to these but I'd be interested in seeing responses from the veterans.
« Last Edit: February 3, 2006, 04:12 PM by BrentS »

Offline Nirvana

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Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
« Reply #18 on: February 3, 2006, 04:34 PM »
I think I'm right too. I'll give a shot at it:

Drybrushing:

You take a fairly large brush. Dip it into desired paint color, wipe most of it off, and lightly brush the figure all over or in desired areas. I usually use drybrushing to show texture/detail on robes and headscuplts, or to show a light dust on armor.

Washes:

Use a normal-size brush. Prepare a small amount of diluted paint- add some water so it won't dry quickly so it won't smear or stain. Dip it into desired paint color, then just splotch into grooves, nooks/crannies. Make sure paint covers area wanted. Then, quickly wipe away excess to give a heavy dirty/sooty look. I would reccomend this method for heavy weathering/damage to armor, or to show mud on boots, etc.


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Offline Gregorbian

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Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
« Reply #19 on: February 3, 2006, 04:42 PM »
That pretty much covered how to do it.  Drybrushing is more for elevated areas (and should be done in a lighter color than the "base" color).  A Wash is usually used for recesses in the sculpt and should be done in a slightly darker color.  If you have the time/patience do a wash and then drybrush to highlight the raised areas.

I don't have a lot of luck with washes because I don't think I dilute the paint enough. 

Experimenting with these techniques is the only real way to learn how to do 'em, good luck!  :)
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Offline ThePerennial

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Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
« Reply #20 on: February 3, 2006, 07:38 PM »
 I apologise if I'm hijacking the thread by asking a question of my own, but I do have a question that needs answering.

 I'm going to buy a dremel soon and was wondering if it would be okay to get the dremel brand engraver, as it is cheaper. would it cut as well as a normal dremel?

Offline CHEWIE

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Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
« Reply #21 on: February 3, 2006, 09:36 PM »
Yeah, I think Nirvana and Gregorbian did a great summary of a dry brush vs. a wash.  And Brent, sorry I didn't reply earlier about the types of paints I use on foamcore - I use the cheap Walmart acrylic paints.  You can alway dilute the paint a bit too with water to get more use of it.

As for a dremel... you know, I don't know what's really good over the other.  I'm pretty one dimensional in that area, I use just one size bit.

 :P

Offline Gregorbian

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Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
« Reply #22 on: February 4, 2006, 10:53 AM »
I've only used my Dremel (and a cheap $10 rotary drill that was good for about 3 days), so I don't know how the engraver would work.  I think that Crafstman (Sears brand) rotary tool is identical to a Dremel but a lot cheaper.  You should check them out.  Never skimp on quality tools  ;D
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Offline Nirvana

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Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
« Reply #23 on: February 4, 2006, 11:36 AM »
I use a regular Dremel with three bits:

Cone-shaped Sand bit

Cylindrical Sander bit

Small Drill Bit (perfect for drilling out neck peg holes or limb-peg holes)

I would just shell out 40 something bucks for a standard Dremel tool.
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Offline Darth Delicious

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Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
« Reply #24 on: February 4, 2006, 03:24 PM »
I can't emphasize enough how much easier customizing has become since I bought my Dremel. It's well worth the price, and if you can afford to buy the extra attachments (They sell kits of these) that's worth it too. I have used almost all the tools in it at one time or another.

It's the same with paints...I spend a little more to get Games Workshop acrylic paints because of how smooth they go on and how nice the finished product comes out. You should never skimp when it comes to the ingredients for what you do...I've seen a lot of potentially great customs ruined because of cheap enamel paint. Same with the dremel.

-DD
« Last Edit: February 4, 2006, 03:25 PM by Darth Delicious »
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Offline ratm

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painting question
« Reply #25 on: April 3, 2006, 05:02 PM »
I have just begun painting my figures. I know that after painting I should spray them with a matte sealer. My question is can you spray the whole figure if you did not paint the whole figue? Also does this help with the figure being sticky?
Thanks

Offline BrentS

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Re: painting question
« Reply #26 on: April 3, 2006, 05:23 PM »
Welcome to JD, I think you'll find this site is full of customizers ready, willing, and able to help out.

Now to your question.  I've never done this but I've heard others talk about using enamel based paints (such as many Testors paints) that always make the figures sticky.  From what I understand, the paint actually reacts with the plastic in such a way that it never really dries.  I'm wondering if that is the stickiness that you are seeing.

If you are painting on plastic figure, best off using acrylic (water based) paints.  You can buy these cheaply at a craft store (e.g. Apple Barrel brand and others, including testors acrylics) or more expensively (Citadel/Warhammer, Reaper, or Vallejo are all brands commonly used by forum members).  For the most part, I've seen that "you get what you pay for" when it comes to paints.  However, almost any acrylic paints should work.

However, your main question was on Matte coating.  I've used these sprays off and on on my customs.  I'm on the fence as to how well they actually work.  I've found that sometimes the sealant actually leaves the figure sticky but it usually dries given enough time.  I know a lot of other people here seal all of their figures and that usually helps with minor paint abbrasion.

Good luck and make sure you come back with photos when you are ready!!

Offline Errex

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Re: painting question
« Reply #27 on: April 3, 2006, 06:56 PM »
I prime the areas I am going to paint with brush-on acryllic primer, and the paints I use are Citadel. I have never really have any of it peel away nor chip, and the finish is pretty much as matte as the factory paintjobs. as a matter of fact, sometimes I need to mix a little acryllic gloss into my paints so it matches the glossiness of the original paintjobs.

I rarely use spray sealer (matte or glossy) on my figures, but normally I don't spray the whole figure. Often I'll use masking tape or pieces of paper to mask the areas I don't want hit by the spray.

Offline RollaJedi

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Joints Scraping Paint!
« Reply #28 on: April 3, 2006, 11:30 PM »
I know a lot of you probably have this problem, but maybe someone can help me out here.  When you paint a figure that has articulation, even basic leg rotation, the paint gets scraped off.  I really would like to know how to solve this problem, especially on elbow and ball shoulder joints.  I wondered if maybe sealant on those areas would do it.
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Offline BrentS

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Re: Joints Scraping Paint!
« Reply #29 on: April 3, 2006, 11:36 PM »
Hey RollaJedi,
I asked this question earlier this year and got a lot of good responses.  Check out this thread for some advice in starting out.  Maybe your thread will inspire some more ideas and solutions.