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Collecting => Customs => Customizing Tips and Tricks => Topic started by: BrentS on January 3, 2006, 05:31 PM

Title: Painting Custom Figures - Tips and Tricks?
Post by: BrentS on January 3, 2006, 05:31 PM
This is the first in a series of newbie-like questions that I'm going to post. I've already introduced myself and some of my customs in another thread.  I'm very impressed by activity on this custom community.  So, I'd like to pick your brains in order to improve my skills.

So my question, how do you keep the paint from chipping around articulation joints (especially sholders, elbows, and knees)?  I've thought about trying to cut away the offending scraping pieces (sounds dangerous) and I've also tried (somewhat unsucessfully) using a Dull Coat varnish (Gamesworkshop Brand).  However, the varnish doesn't seem to protect those joints too well (especially if they are already very prone to scraping).

Any help is much appreciated!

As a post script.  For Newbie Question #2, would you prefer I add to this thread or start a new topic?
Title: Re: Newbie Question #1 - Paint Chipping around joints
Post by: CHEWIE on January 3, 2006, 05:49 PM
This is pretty good, and I think it would be nice to see this as a sticky topic actually.  Maybe you could continue with a weekly question added to this thread?

For joints, I run into the same problem quite often.  I've heard different techniques used, from trimming the area down so there isn't any friction to using certaint types of paints.

For myself, I decide on two things -

(1) How bad do I need this articulation?  If not too bad, then I use superglue and glue over the joint.  After it dries, I paint over it.  This should still allow for basic articulation, but not the "ball joint" type.  Make sense?

(2) Or I will paint in very thin coats and spray on acrylic matte sealer after each paint coating. 

There are different techniques available, but option #1 tends to work best for me.

 :P
Title: Re: Newbie Question #1 - Paint Chipping around joints
Post by: jedistyle on January 3, 2006, 06:01 PM
i have used the "cutting away scraping area" technique in the past. usually with an exacto knife, trying to keep the section you cut away in the same basic shape as it started. the only thing is that you end up with a lrger space and somtimes that looks wierd, especialy on arms. the other problem you may run into with this is by removing sections from the joint you may losen the joint, so now your limbs are floppy!

the thin paint technique has worked best for me. i always try to chose parts colored as close as possible to the color i plan on painting it, if possible! or chosing a joint that may be the color of some weathering you may do. it narrows down the amount of parts you have to select from, but allows you to get the disiered articulation. it is up to you which you want more though, articulation or unchipped paint.

another thing i have yet to try but have been wanting to do on say a shoulder joint or somthing, is try to make a super thin layer of sculpy to fit over the moving part of the joint and paint that. but that may restrict movement to, like i said i still haven't tried it, just somthing i was thinking of!

hope your painting goes well and can't wait to see more of your custom's!
Title: Re: Newbie Question #1 - Paint Chipping around joints
Post by: Joe on January 3, 2006, 06:29 PM
Hemble uses this alot.With a tootpick carefully put super glue on the joint .CAREFULL don't mess up or your figure's arm (or leg) is not soaked with glue.After it dries use a little force to "unstick" the joint and it should move...if not don't use as much next time.
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Wokring with Foamcore
Post by: BrentS on January 9, 2006, 05:35 PM
Thought I'd post this newbie question to go along with the Monthly Project.  What tips do you have for working with Foamcore for Dioramas.  From what I've gathered, sharp hobby knifes are the key.  However, any other tips?

What about gluing options (glue gun, any others??). 

What about painting on foamcore, any special tricks (is primer necessary?)

As you can see, I hope to make this week's thread, the one shop stop for all your foamcore questions.
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions
Post by: Ryan on January 9, 2006, 06:02 PM
Hot glue is definitely the prefered glue for foamcore. You can get a decent gun for around $10, and the glue sticks are cheap two, you can get a decent sized pack for about $2. Rather than Hooby knives, I actuallty found that a really sharp utility knife (the orange handled ones) will work even better. The blades are replaceable and you can just break off a section if it starts to dull, and you have a sharp tip. They are easy to get a good grip on and apply ample pressure to get a really clean cut that will go all the way through each time. It is usauslly a good idea to have several grades on sandpaper handy too, so you can make sure your edges are smooth. And like anything measure twice, cut once. It always helps to get everything cut right the first time, but I always save my scraps (even the little ones) in case I have to fill any gaps.

Primer will never hurt, on anything. It may be a little more expensive but I've found you will get better results when it is used. Sanding it lightly before and after you prime it with a fine grained sandpaper should help the paint apply better too.

Hope this helps.
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions
Post by: CHEWIE on January 9, 2006, 06:14 PM
I think Ryan pretty much covered all the bases on that.  I haven't used sandpaper on one before or primer, but I think that is an excellent suggestion.

  :P
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions
Post by: BrentS on January 10, 2006, 03:53 PM
Do most people spray paint onto the foam core or paint by hand with the acrylics we use on our figures?
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions
Post by: CHEWIE on January 10, 2006, 03:55 PM
I can't speak for others Brent, but I personally hand paint them.  I buy those foam brushes for most of the painting of these.  Cheap and effective.

(http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/prodpics/large/RODFBS3P.jpg)

 :P
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions
Post by: BrentS on January 10, 2006, 05:17 PM
Chewie, thanks for the advice.  What paints do you use on your foamcore dioramas?  Those little jars of Gamesworkshop paints don't go very far on big sheets :)
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions
Post by: Joe on January 10, 2006, 05:32 PM
I use apple barrel or something like that.Go to michaels and you can buy about 5 of these for less than 5 dollars.
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions
Post by: Ryan on January 10, 2006, 05:40 PM
I use apple barrel or something like that.Go to michaels and you can buy about 5 of these for less than 5 dollars.

Yup. Wal-Mart has them too. they are in a different section than the other paints of course so it may take awhile to find them, but they are there. The section has about 3 different brands. They all come in about 2 oz bottles they've got lots of colors and are usually between 70cents and $1.75, depending on the particular brand.
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions
Post by: BrentS on January 10, 2006, 05:41 PM
Good idea.  I've got a bunch of those Michael's bottles left over from another project I was working on.  They don't work well on figures but foamcore... yes maybe.  Thanks!
Title: Painting Custom Figures - Tips and Tricks?
Post by: Clone Hunter on January 30, 2006, 10:04 PM
Years ago, I made a fanfic character of a force using Stormtroper, basically Vaders apprentice. Well, i painted a POTF2 Luke Stormtroopers armor silver and almost 6 1/2 years later, it is still tacky.

Last nite, I tried my hand at a 212th ATTE trooper, and the orange paint is tacky.

Is there a secret that I am missing? Is the plastic, no condusive to paint? As it is now, I can wipe the paint right off.
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: Ryan on January 30, 2006, 11:03 PM
It sounds like you are using enamels. They will never dry. Try using some acrylic paints, and hitting them with a matte sealer afterwords.
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: exjedi on January 30, 2006, 11:37 PM
It sounds like you are using enamels. They will never dry. Try using some acrylic paints, and hitting them with a matte sealer afterwords.

It's true enamels and soft plastics don't mix, acrylics is the only way to go.  I use Tamiya flat acrylics myself and the best part about acrylics is they thin and clean up with water, which also means that sealing the items is also the way to go.
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: hemble on January 31, 2006, 09:53 PM
Gday mate the other guys are correct enamels are shite on plastic it will always stay tacky and dust will stick to it like flies to sh*t.

Try using  either Games workshop paints or vallejo paints they have the best range of colours and they are flat colours.

Ron
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
Post by: BrentS on February 3, 2006, 04:12 PM
So New Question of the week.  Explain the difference between dry brushing and washing as painting techniques.  Can you provide examples of when you would use one or the other.  I think I know the answers to these but I'd be interested in seeing responses from the veterans.
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
Post by: Nirvana on February 3, 2006, 04:34 PM
I think I'm right too. I'll give a shot at it:

Drybrushing:

You take a fairly large brush. Dip it into desired paint color, wipe most of it off, and lightly brush the figure all over or in desired areas. I usually use drybrushing to show texture/detail on robes and headscuplts, or to show a light dust on armor.

Washes:

Use a normal-size brush. Prepare a small amount of diluted paint- add some water so it won't dry quickly so it won't smear or stain. Dip it into desired paint color, then just splotch into grooves, nooks/crannies. Make sure paint covers area wanted. Then, quickly wipe away excess to give a heavy dirty/sooty look. I would reccomend this method for heavy weathering/damage to armor, or to show mud on boots, etc.


I hope I'm right.
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
Post by: Gregorbian on February 3, 2006, 04:42 PM
That pretty much covered how to do it.  Drybrushing is more for elevated areas (and should be done in a lighter color than the "base" color).  A Wash is usually used for recesses in the sculpt and should be done in a slightly darker color.  If you have the time/patience do a wash and then drybrush to highlight the raised areas.

I don't have a lot of luck with washes because I don't think I dilute the paint enough. 

Experimenting with these techniques is the only real way to learn how to do 'em, good luck!  :)
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
Post by: ThePerennial on February 3, 2006, 07:38 PM
 I apologise if I'm hijacking the thread by asking a question of my own, but I do have a question that needs answering.

 I'm going to buy a dremel soon and was wondering if it would be okay to get the dremel brand engraver, as it is cheaper. would it cut as well as a normal dremel?
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
Post by: CHEWIE on February 3, 2006, 09:36 PM
Yeah, I think Nirvana and Gregorbian did a great summary of a dry brush vs. a wash.  And Brent, sorry I didn't reply earlier about the types of paints I use on foamcore - I use the cheap Walmart acrylic paints.  You can alway dilute the paint a bit too with water to get more use of it.

As for a dremel... you know, I don't know what's really good over the other.  I'm pretty one dimensional in that area, I use just one size bit.

 :P
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
Post by: Gregorbian on February 4, 2006, 10:53 AM
I've only used my Dremel (and a cheap $10 rotary drill that was good for about 3 days), so I don't know how the engraver would work.  I think that Crafstman (Sears brand) rotary tool is identical to a Dremel but a lot cheaper.  You should check them out.  Never skimp on quality tools  ;D
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
Post by: Nirvana on February 4, 2006, 11:36 AM
I use a regular Dremel with three bits:

Cone-shaped Sand bit

Cylindrical Sander bit

Small Drill Bit (perfect for drilling out neck peg holes or limb-peg holes)

I would just shell out 40 something bucks for a standard Dremel tool.
Title: Re: Newbie Question Thread - Weekly Questions - 2/3 - Dry Brush vs Wash
Post by: Darth Delicious on February 4, 2006, 03:24 PM
I can't emphasize enough how much easier customizing has become since I bought my Dremel. It's well worth the price, and if you can afford to buy the extra attachments (They sell kits of these) that's worth it too. I have used almost all the tools in it at one time or another.

It's the same with paints...I spend a little more to get Games Workshop acrylic paints because of how smooth they go on and how nice the finished product comes out. You should never skimp when it comes to the ingredients for what you do...I've seen a lot of potentially great customs ruined because of cheap enamel paint. Same with the dremel.

-DD
Title: painting question
Post by: ratm on April 3, 2006, 05:02 PM
I have just begun painting my figures. I know that after painting I should spray them with a matte sealer. My question is can you spray the whole figure if you did not paint the whole figue? Also does this help with the figure being sticky?
Thanks
Title: Re: painting question
Post by: BrentS on April 3, 2006, 05:23 PM
Welcome to JD, I think you'll find this site is full of customizers ready, willing, and able to help out.

Now to your question.  I've never done this but I've heard others talk about using enamel based paints (such as many Testors paints) that always make the figures sticky.  From what I understand, the paint actually reacts with the plastic in such a way that it never really dries.  I'm wondering if that is the stickiness that you are seeing.

If you are painting on plastic figure, best off using acrylic (water based) paints.  You can buy these cheaply at a craft store (e.g. Apple Barrel brand and others, including testors acrylics) or more expensively (Citadel/Warhammer, Reaper, or Vallejo are all brands commonly used by forum members).  For the most part, I've seen that "you get what you pay for" when it comes to paints.  However, almost any acrylic paints should work.

However, your main question was on Matte coating.  I've used these sprays off and on on my customs.  I'm on the fence as to how well they actually work.  I've found that sometimes the sealant actually leaves the figure sticky but it usually dries given enough time.  I know a lot of other people here seal all of their figures and that usually helps with minor paint abbrasion.

Good luck and make sure you come back with photos when you are ready!!
Title: Re: painting question
Post by: Errex on April 3, 2006, 06:56 PM
I prime the areas I am going to paint with brush-on acryllic primer, and the paints I use are Citadel. I have never really have any of it peel away nor chip, and the finish is pretty much as matte as the factory paintjobs. as a matter of fact, sometimes I need to mix a little acryllic gloss into my paints so it matches the glossiness of the original paintjobs.

I rarely use spray sealer (matte or glossy) on my figures, but normally I don't spray the whole figure. Often I'll use masking tape or pieces of paper to mask the areas I don't want hit by the spray.
Title: Joints Scraping Paint!
Post by: RollaJedi on April 3, 2006, 11:30 PM
I know a lot of you probably have this problem, but maybe someone can help me out here.  When you paint a figure that has articulation, even basic leg rotation, the paint gets scraped off.  I really would like to know how to solve this problem, especially on elbow and ball shoulder joints.  I wondered if maybe sealant on those areas would do it.
Title: Re: Joints Scraping Paint!
Post by: BrentS on April 3, 2006, 11:36 PM
Hey RollaJedi,
I asked this question earlier this year and got a lot of good responses.  Check out this  thread  (http://www.jedidefender.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=10642.msg189867#msg189867) for some advice in starting out.  Maybe your thread will inspire some more ideas and solutions.
Title: Re: Joints Scraping Paint!
Post by: Ryan on April 4, 2006, 12:27 AM
I know a lot of you probably have this problem, but maybe someone can help me out here. When you paint a figure that has articulation, even basic leg rotation, the paint gets scraped off. I really would like to know how to solve this problem, especially on elbow and ball shoulder joints. I wondered if maybe sealant on those areas would do it.

Well you should seal your figure regardless of it being painted at the joints, it gives it more of a production look and should help protect the paint all over.

hemble is always suggesting using a bit of superglue on the tip of a toothpick and carefully covering the areas around the joint that may chip. I tried it recently and it seems to work really well.
Title: Re: Joints Scraping Paint!
Post by: RollaJedi on April 4, 2006, 10:52 AM
very interesting!  I may have to try this!
Title: Re: Joints Scraping Paint!
Post by: findswoman on April 4, 2006, 12:27 PM
I seem to have this issue even though I DO use spray sealant!  I'll have to try that superglue trick of hemble's, though -- that may be just the thing.

... the Findswoman
Title: Re: Joints Scraping Paint!
Post by: Joe on April 4, 2006, 06:30 PM
I use hembles method and it works like a charm...just 1 make sure you don't glue the 2 parts together  2.....if  you passout of super glue fumes....umm...well....hope someone will call 911....but still gotta love super glue
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: Brisk Arper on May 14, 2006, 10:57 AM
i agree, games workshop paint are awsum for painting soft plastics, mainly because thats what their mde for lol, i wouldnt go with any ither paints, infact most of my customizin kit comes from gw
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: Smartypants1635 on May 14, 2006, 12:04 PM
OMG you ressurected a 5 month old thread, my only "?" is WHY. ???
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: Brisk Arper on May 14, 2006, 12:33 PM
was u talkin to me then?, casue i only joined last night so i dont really know much bout 5 month old topics lol
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: Smartypants1635 on May 14, 2006, 01:17 PM
    Yeah this is a 5 month old topic look at the post before yours, Jan 31 so I guess it's really 4 months then, but still ???

     Also instead of "was u talkin to me" you'll get more love if you use "Were you talking to me? Because I only joined last night, so I don't really know much about 5 month old topics. LOL."

    This board tends to be more strict about: grammar, word usage, and spelling. The more you concentrate on this the more respect you will have, not just for your work but for yourself.
     Anyway welcome aboard, it's good to have you here. Can't wait to see your customs.

Sorry Mods for going off topic on this one. You can delete this post if need be.
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: kirk_dougall on May 14, 2006, 01:27 PM
Quote
Yeah this is a 5 month old topic look at the post before yours, Jan 31 so I guess it's really 4 months then, but still 

     Also instead of "was u talkin to me" you'll get more love if you use "Were you talking to me? Because I only joined last night, so I don't really know much about 5 month old topics. LOL."

    This board tends to be more strict about: grammar, word usage, and spelling. The more you concentrate on this the more respect you will have, not just for your work but for yourself.
     Anyway welcome aboard, it's good to have you here. Can't wait to see your customs.

Sorry Mods for going off topic on this one. You can delete this post if need be.


 :o I'm amazed this place isnt packed full of members if they all receive a welcome like that ::)
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: Smartypants1635 on May 14, 2006, 02:11 PM
I'm not yelling at him, I'm letting him know what goes down here, so he doesn't get skinned alive like I did when I first came. :-\
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: Brisk Arper on May 14, 2006, 05:13 PM
thank you very much, i'll watch my grammer hence forth and shall post some of my mandalorian customs as soon as i have acctually got pictures of them
Title: Re: painting figures
Post by: Darth_Ennis on May 15, 2006, 03:28 PM
You have the same problem that I had when I was using enamels. Some of my earliest customs are still sticky. I switched over to acrylic paints that you find in the craft section at Walmart. I haven't had that problem since.
Title: customs
Post by: 212th Battalion on August 18, 2006, 06:38 PM
I have always wanted to make customs but never knew what materials and paint i needed so i was wondering if anyone could make a list of materials and type of paint i should use to make customs and where i would be able to get them plz and thank u ;D
Title: Re: customs
Post by: Straxus on August 18, 2006, 06:45 PM
When I started making customs almost everybody directed me to Citadel paints by Games Workshop. I however have been so busy with preping custom parts that I have not had chance to use them yet, but almost every pic I have seen where they were used looked great!
(From personal experience...DONT USE TESTORS! The path to the darkside it is... too thick.)
Title: Re: customs
Post by: BrentS on August 18, 2006, 07:34 PM
If you are just getting started (and even some very talented and experienced customizers).  You can buy the "cheap" acrylic paints at Michaels and Walmart.  They are usually less than $1 apiece and available a huge variety of colors.

Personally, I use Citadel (gamesworkshop) and reaper brand paints.  They are $2-3 for about 1/2 oz.

Title: Re: customs
Post by: Nirvana on August 19, 2006, 07:30 PM
I mainly use Apple Barrel and Folk Art acrylic paints. They run at about a dollar a bottle, and have a very rich color when given a few coats. The only downside to them is that they chip easily.

Another brand I've come to love is Tamiya Brand Acrlyics. Found at most hobby stores, they mainly come in all military colors and have virtually no chipping once completely dry.
Title: Re: customs
Post by: Ryan on August 19, 2006, 09:23 PM
Customs Forum Index Thread - Tips, Hints, Tutorials, and More!  (http://www.jedidefender.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=12694.0)

Check the thread index out paint questions have been brought up several times. In the future try and check there first because you'll find many of your questions have probably already been answered. If you don't see what you are looking for there, try www.ffurg.com. They'll have anything you could possibly need. If for some reason you can't find what you are looking ofr in either place go ahead and start up a thread here.

I'm going to go ahead and merge this with the existing paint "Painting Custom Figures - Tips and Tricks?" thread.
Title: Re: Painting Custom Figures - Tips and Tricks?
Post by: Daigo-Bah on August 20, 2006, 10:19 AM
This is a pic of the Ultra Escape Pod after a wash.  I greatly diluted regular Fol Art black, and just touched all the details with the tip of the brush, and the black colored water runs into the recessed parts on it's own.

(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid181/p36411202cec2b16657136ed3c0cb05f5/f2e0c686.jpg)

(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid181/pea4b0b0a68778574c75cd4ec6c69fd2e/f2e0dae1.jpg)

(http://www.rebelscum.com/swsaga/sw04ultrac-3popodthrusters.jpg)
Title: Re: Painting Custom Figures - Tips and Tricks?
Post by: Dan on August 22, 2006, 07:36 AM
That is a serious upgrade to the escape pod! I just might be able to pull that one off!  ;)