I loved Arya's return to Winterfell. The training scene with Brienne was amazingly good! "Who trained your?"...."No one." I also like how Arya, Sansa and Bran are catching up and realizing that, although they have grown apart due to their experiences, the fact that they are family keeps them united. Ol' Littlefinger is playing every angle, and I love how Bran threw the chaos is a ladder quote back at him....just a "I will never trust you" moment that was awesome.
The battle was epic....I think they blew a lot of the FX budget right there. Tyrion watching, almost pleading for Jamie to run was gut wrenching. Now Danarys knows the Lannisters have a weapon that can harm her dragons....so she can take precautions against it. I don't think all three dragons will survive the series...but at least they won't die cheaply.
Also, I'm kind of glad that Jon Snow Targaryan isn't bending the knee so quickly...even though it will give him all sorts of help! The two will come to some sort of agreement, and I can't wait to see how it plays out.