New To Vintage Collecting? Some Tips!

[Rob]

Welcome aboard.

My advice is to start by looking for lots of mint complete figures (and by lots of course, I mean a lot as in more than one in one auction ) - if you find the right lot you can do very well.

I started with a lot of 13 ROTJ figures for $45 or so.  All had weapons and all were in great shape.  Eventually it gets harder to find a lot that has only stuff you still need, that's when I started looking for individual figure sales.

Also, you can save a fortune cleaning things up.  My Leia - as perfect as could be, cost me about $9 because it was a little dirty in the pictures. 

Learn how to spot repro weapons, if that's important to you.

[Desfiy]

Yup good haul Robo Quack, I am just getting into it myself, I only have 28 figures but at least I am on the road to the Vintage Mecca.

As people have said use E-Bay, dont bid straight away wait till the end then bid (well this is what I have found out), best time to get the figures is usually middle of the week or middle of the afternoon when people arent checking as much.

Also like Rob said clean the figures up, its surprising how nice they can get, I use hot water and denture cleaner to clean mine, drop a tablet or 2 in the hot water and then dip the figure (obviously dont use this method on astromech droids, the stickers dont like it, also dont dip carded figures into the solution, lol) and then use a very soft bristled tootbrush to give it a scrub (dont scrub to heavy, you want light strokes but make sure it contacts with the figure), also remember to use a wet rag or something soft and wet to clean of the residue, then finally wipe clean with dry rag.

[Brian]

Although I haven't yet finished my loose vintage collection, I've also been looking at carded figures every so often on ebay as well.  Although I'll likely never be able to afford to get a complete run or anything like that, I wouldn't mind getting a few of my favorites over time.  Anyways, the first figure I've really been looking at is a Han Solo.  I've specifically been looking at the ROTJ Endor Han, since that was my favorite figure as a kid, and have good nostalgia for both the figure and cardback.  Anyways, to my question, I know next to nothing about vintage carded collecting and I'm unsure of what to look for as far as fakes, reseals, etc.  Just as an example, here is one I have been watching on ebay:

ROTJ Han Solo (In Trench Coat)

Now, I know it obviously isn't in perfect condition either, but price is a big consideration for me as well.  Just curious if anyone could give me some advice on things to look for (whether on this figure in particular, or on vintage carded in general).  Thanks so much for any help.

[Jayson]

When I've shopped for mine, I tend to buy from sellers who've completed a lot of transations and have near perfect feedback.

Another thing to do is search for completed sales of the item you're looking for to see the kinds of price range you're looking to be in. It'll help you from over paying or underpaying for something that might not be what it says it is.

I think that auction you're watching looks to be a good one and I think that's a fair price for that particular jacket version of the Endor Han.

[john todd]

Anyways, the first figure I've really been looking at is a Han Solo.  I've specifically been looking at the ROTJ Endor Han.  Anyways, to my question, I know next to nothing about vintage carded collecting and I'm unsure of what to look for as far as fakes, reseals, etc.  Just as an example, here is one I have been watching on ebay:

you picked a pretty good figure to be your favorite.  endor han is one of the cheaper main characters you can get carded.  it is pretty hard to find one without a yellow bubble though.  if that is a problem, be prepared to pay alot more.

[McMetal]

I can see I'll be spending a lot of time in here. 

I have caught the vintage collecting bug BAD in the past few weeks. I was a dedicated collector in my younger days and then lost interest around the time Kenner went under.

I got back into the whole thing with the first Clone Wars animated series. (Tartakovsky = brilliant) From there I morphed seamlessly into the CGI CW merchandise. I have pretty much everything CW related that is currently available, so my interest soon gravitated back to the original Kenner swag.

Luckily most of my early collection survived, with the exception of a few vehicles and playsets, so after a quick review I found I only needed about 18 more figs for a complete collection. And with that, the hunt was on.

Luckily eBay and I are old friends, so I have not had much trouble scoring the remainders so far. I can already see Yak Face will the the last to pick up. Even loose that mother is pricey!

I do have a question about "repro" weapons - I often see this noted in auction listings. Are these vintage era weapons from other figures being substituted or post-80's reproductions, like from the "Saga" re-releases?

I try to steer clear of anything that isn't 100% authentic or complete, but I'm still curious what that REPRO tag implies.

[sabresedge]

I can see I'll be spending a lot of time in here. 

I have caught the vintage collecting bug BAD in the past few weeks. I was a dedicated collector in my younger days and then lost interest around the time Kenner went under.

I got back into the whole thing with the first Clone Wars animated series. (Tartakovsky = brilliant) From there I morphed seamlessly into the CGI CW merchandise. I have pretty much everything CW related that is currently available, so my interest soon gravitated back to the original Kenner swag.

Luckily most of my early collection survived, with the exception of a few vehicles and playsets, so after a quick review I found I only needed about 18 more figs for a complete collection. And with that, the hunt was on.

Luckily eBay and I are old friends, so I have not had much trouble scoring the remainders so far. I can already see Yak Face will the the last to pick up. Even loose that mother is pricey!

I do have a question about "repro" weapons - I often see this noted in auction listings. Are these vintage era weapons from other figures being substituted or post-80's reproductions, like from the "Saga" re-releases?

I try to steer clear of anything that isn't 100% authentic or complete, but I'm still curious what that REPRO tag implies.

Anytime you see REPRO in an auction with a loose vintage figure, the weapon you're receiving was NOT made in the 70's or 80's, but around the early to mid 90's and are not considered original. Most REPRO weapons will sink if put in a glass or water or make a "tingy" sound when dropped on a hard surface. Originals float in water, will not make that sound, and are in much higher demand then their 90's versions. The REPRO weapons are often easy to spot to the trained eye and some are even off on the colors. For example, some repro blasters are dark grey when they should be black or blue.

The Saga weapons are actually larger in size and are very easy to spot. I would recommend staying away from ebay for loose figure purchases with any dealer that has REPRO in the description or even sells lots of weapons by themselves. Some dealers include the phrase, "weapons and accessories that come with these figures may or may not be reproductions", somewhere near the end of their description which keeps them out of trouble with ebay.

James

[McMetal]

Thanks for the info, that is great to know!

I have tried to be pretty selective about the loose figs I am picking up, most are from reputable dealers with 100% feedback and have detailed descriptions and photos. I have definitely noticed a few auctions that seem intentionally vague out there.

Last stupid question - what kind of a grading scale is being used on these things? I see lots of C10 and C9.5 but I have no idea what those points correspond to. Is it some kind of AFA standard?

[sabresedge]

Thanks for the info, that is great to know!

I have tried to be pretty selective about the loose figs I am picking up, most are from reputable dealers with 100% feedback and have detailed descriptions and photos. I have definitely noticed a few auctions that seem intentionally vague out there.

Last stupid question - what kind of a grading scale is being used on these things? I see lots of C10 and C9.5 but I have no idea what those points correspond to. Is it some kind of AFA standard?

That's a whole other story altogether. One person's idea of C9 may be different from yours. If they hold the figure by the head and shake it slightly and the limbs don't wobble, they may consider it C9. Upon further inspection though, it may have slight paint wear, factory paint overspray, or marks on the inner parts of the arms or legs.

I believe C10 figures DO NOT EXIST. There is always a flaw with a figure like the ones mentioned above. I've even seen ones opened from cut cards with marks on them from rubbing against the bubble or a mark probably made prior to leaving the conveyor to the bubble attachment area. Very few have ever graded AFA 100 and those sell for astronomical(and not worth it IMHO)prices.

There's not a universal grading system per say, but mostly what you decide you're willing to settle for as far as your own grading standard. Some collectors prefer figures minty ones in case they have to sell them sometime in the future. Others just want to display them in dioramas or give them to their kids to play with. In the latter case, it also keeps your kids attention away from "Daddy's Toys" in the house.

If you are looking for high grade figures. You might be better off buying ones on beat up cards and opening them. GASP! I know some of you are shocked right now with me saying this, but I've seen everything from a POTF R2 Pop Up Saber to a ESB red Sanggletooth opened in front of me after I sold them to people who wanted minty figures and hated AFA. On the other hand, cut and damaged cards have lately brought higher prices since AFA collectors are sending them in to get the "U" or uncirculated grades. These add a premium price and spawned a whole new breed of collectors.

I do have lots of vintage figures available(loose and MOC) so if you're looking for certain ones, feel free to send me a PM and I can see what I can do for you. I'm also listed on Rebelscum under the same name if you need references or feedback.

James

[Pete_Fett]

While I still have all of my vintage figures from when I was a kid, I have still either yet to uncover the box of my old playsets/vehicles in my parents' basement or it was thrown out years ago...

Either way, I have been hesitant to fill-in my own perceived "gaps" in the modern line with items from the vintage line for the primary reason that there's always a chance that ONE DAY Hasbro may update/re-release a vintage item. The updated Cloud Car prototype that recently came to light is evidence of this and I now find myself glad I never tried to track down a vintage Cloud Car to give my OTC Cloud Car pilots something to drive.

I have picked up a couple mini-rigs like the ISP-6, Endor Forest Ranger & Desert Sail Skiff - but I again I didn't want to go too crazy with those since they too may be updated one day.

One area though that probably will never be updated though is the playsets. One playset in particular that I'm interested in is the Dagobah playset.

I had this set as a kid and I remember my "bog" foam turning to a mush-like paste and I think at that point I threw my playset out (wish I could go back in time and stop myself, but oh well).

Is this set still worth getting? What (if anything) should I keep an eye out for if I'm looking to acquire a set on eBay? If I can find a set that is 100% complete and 100% in mint condition except the "bog" foam is gone/decayed, is there a solution for replacing that foam?

Any advice/help seasoned vintage collectors are willing to provide would be most appreciated.

[Carpeteria3000]

Everyone's collecting habits are their own, but I personally would never want to fill in gaps with anything modern, as they're just not the same, no matter whether they're made from the same or similar molds, etc. The appeal for collecting vintage to me is that they're the toys I had as a kid (or at least lusted after as a kid). Modern stuff is fun, too, but I don't look at them as interchangeable.

As far as the Dagobah playset, there are definitely sources out there for replacement foam, both specifically made for that set, as well as just general uses. Good luck!

[McMetal]

Yep, I am in the process of completing my vintage playset run right now. I lost all of the cardboard backdrops and somehow missed 1 or 2 of those altogether. (Cloud City?!?!)

If you scan through some of the older threads in this forum, there is a wealth of information to be found. I know I have read about the decaying foam issue before. There is replacement foam available, but it is not the same as the vintage stuff, so to me it is a poor substitute. You might check around on eBay, I believe I have run across some on there.

I have the same problem with the foam in my Death Star trash compactor. It literally crumbles in your hand if you touch it now.

[bobafett14]

Weird.  My Death Star foam is in perfect shape (it's original, and had since age 6, os iknow it' the fam tat came wt it originally). The Dagoba foam is another story.

Side note, I jut found an old board game called "Press ups".  it has 4 pieces of foam on the bottom...they are exactly like the foam in the Dagobah set as it almost disinegrates on touch.  You can pinch it between your fingers and it presses together into alomst nothing.  Best way I can explain.