JediDefender.com Forums
Collectibles => Vintage Kenner => Topic started by: Morgbug on June 9, 2003, 11:22 AM
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Thinking about getting into vintage. Figs only for the most part (though now that I remember, my Rancor is actually the Vintage version :)). To that end, I want to ask some questions of the knowledgeable folks. Specifically I'll be curious about prices.
My goals are as follows:
complete loose figure collection, though not overly concerned about vinyl vs cloth cape Jawa for example.
not too concerned with the saber variations - eg. double telescoping vs anything else
not overly concerned about vlix or blue snaggletooth at this moment in time ;)
I think I will start with imperials, given my biases, so the first questions are:
Vader: how many versions and reasonable prices (US bucks)
Stormtrooper: price?
vinty poster: price?
Links are helpful too, just point the way. Always happy to have questions answered personally though. ;D
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First off I will say it all depends on what condition you want the figures. Do you want original weapons to go with them or reproductions.
The better the figure the more they will cost. Now being a newbie starting the vintage collection, you should get to know the figures & whats out there. You should pick up Star Wars: The Action Figure Archive by Stephen Sansweet. There is one on eBay right now. Action Figure Archive (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3526249791&category=29276)
Another way to research eBay is to use this old search engine to look at completed items & on going auctions.
Search/Items (http://pages.ebay.com/search/items/search-old.html)
You can also search BIN items by what I use that come out new every odd hour.
New Vintage Bin's (http://listings.ebay.com/pool3/plistings/newtoday/fixed/category2475/index.html?from=R0)
Or if you do not want to BIN an auction & want to wait till the end, you can still see the new stuff posted.
Vintage (1977-89) (http://listings.ebay.com/pool3/plistings/newtoday/all/category2475/index.html?from=R0)
If you are not sure on the auction, email the seller & ask questions. What is the shipping cost, do they have better pictures, etc...
The most importent thing is to remember is, spend only what you can afford. Start off with the easy ones to get then work your way up unless you find a bargin auction with lots of figures with a good price.
As for what you ask for prices for the figures, I will give you a few auctions that ended on them.
Darth Complete 1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3133512831&category=2475) Darth Complete 2 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3133488264&category=2475) Darth Complete 3 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3133134912&category=2475)
Stormtrooper Complete 1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3133144346&category=2475) Stormtrooper Complete 2 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3133512895&category=2475) Stormtrooper Complete 3 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3133479269&category=2475)
As you can see, the prices vary from one auction to another.
Star Wars posters:
STAR WARS ONE SHEET STYLE A THEATRE POSTER (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3134076536&category=2475)
Revenge of the Jedi Poster (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2177707310&category=37889)
Advance ESB Movie Poster (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3133662590&category=2475)
STAR WARS 1977 ORIGINAL POSTER (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3330009905&category=2322)
Posters vary in price too & there are fakes out there. I have no idea what to look for in the posters. Maybe someone else can chime in.
Learn first before you buy. Thats what I did. ;)
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Thanks Dale. I've been lurking and watching stuff on ebay for a couple of weeks now. I'll see if I can score that book.
FWIW, I would like nice, but not absolute mint figs. At this point, I seriously doubt that I could tell the difference between original and repro weapons, so either is fine.
Some of the BINs are downright scary and in part owe to why I was interested in that lot last night. Several of those figures (those not deemed in ultra crappy shape) included had quite high BINs. Example being Bespin Leia. She was in the lot, possibly with a torn cape, but the next one I found had a BIN of $40 for loose. No one says I have to BIN, I can just bid, but I have to wonder how accurate those prices are?
Duh, what are the easy ones? I know, look on ebay and find the cheap ones in good condition, ergo easy.
What's your opinion of those prices on the Vader though? Ranging from around $6-13 but is the $13 a bad deal? The reason I ask is that there is a store here in town that sells vintage loose figs, so I can probably score some there to save on shipping. Call shipping high on the $13 Vader, say $7 (for conversation, I'd never pay that) but that would make a total of $20 US or around $27 Cdn or so. Is that too much for a good or NM vintage Vader? If I can go out and buy the fig and have it in hand to inspect, check the joints, look for rubs or tears that is preferable.
I understand the variability. That's the whole thrust of the Ewok village thread. If you're desperate, impatient and dumb, you're bound to pay too much.
Are there any retailers online with "good" vintage prices for loose figs?
I think I'm pretty much aiming only for loose and only for figs. I might watch things like AT-STs or Ties as well, but I can learn those as I go and not worry about questions for them.
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Most vintage non-POTF figs can be had for under $10....if you're patient. A $40 BIN for a bespin Leia is laughable at best........I wouldn't pay over $10 for her complete and mint....why? Because there are tons of these figs out there guys......honestly there is.
I can find mountains of figures at the Plano,Texas Sci Fi show for $5 a pop...complete too. Last year I made the run out to that show with my wife when EP2 came out....there was a show that weekend.......I totally cleaned one dealer out of vintage ship and playset parts......the dealer also had 4 big plastic tubs full of loose figures, in plastic holders,mostly mint with weapons....and original weapons at that....his asking price? $2-$3 apiece!
I run into scenarios like this alot from time to time.........but I don't bother picking them up because I really don't need any other figures other than the 4 last POTF figs I need...and army builders I might want.
But PLEASE, take the time and patience to search ended auctions......and don't jump on the first fig you see......you'll soon find that even most of the vintage POTF figs can be found easily on E-bay........
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Well feel free to ask any questions. I know that myself and the others will help any way we can.
As for vintage figs. Dale brought up alot of good points. Watch completed auctions but most of all be patient. Good deals can be had by checking auctions, Now with summer here another option is rummage sales. Vintage can be found now that some of the parents are emprty nesters. Some are cleaning attics and basements. Deals can be had with patience. I got my vintage Yoda and a Han for 25 cents each last year. Also post a want list. Most of it is just watching and waiting. The basic figs should be fairly easy to get at a good price. Also save up and get a big lot at once. save those shipping costs.
Also send me your adress. I have an extra Vader I would donate to get you started. :)
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Yes BIN prices are high. You will notice that the seller will have a figure starting at say $4.99 with a BIN of $40. The reason they put a high BIN is for the unsuspecting buyer to end the auction & they will make more money than what it is worth. Sometimes you just have to bid the opener & watch to see what happens in the ending days. If there is something you are really interested in, always make sure you are at your computer at the dying minutes. I never put a proxy in as to me it just serves no purpose puting in a proxy to find out someone just wants to bump your price up.
Now prices on the Vader are not too bad. $27. CDN is a good price. Take into account that a mint Luke figure will cost you around $40. - $50. CDN.
If you want, you can always check eBay Canada. Best part, no customs. ;)
The most expensive figures to go after are the POTF last of the 17. These are them:
EV9D9
R2 Popup Sabre
Han Carbonite
Warok
Imperial Dignitary
Romba
Barada
Lando General
Anakin
Luke Stormtrooper
Imperial Gunner
Amanaman
Paploo
A-Wing Pilot
Luke poncho
Lumat
Yak Face
Best figures to start off with, Jawa R2-D2, C-3PO, Gen. Madine, Ackbar, Niem Numb, Imperial Commander, Stormtrooper, AT-AT Commander, B-Wing Pilot, 2-1B, FX-7, Emperor, Biker Scout, Bossk, Zuckuss, Dengar, Hammerhead, Red Snaggletooth, Nikto, Greedo, Walrus Man, Weequay, Klaatu, Bespin Guard, Lobot etc.
You can get these at a fair price.
No weapons to go with them around the $10 - $15. CDN range. If they have weapons, add $5. - $7.
Like you mentioned, if you can find them inhand in town then thats good. You can really have a good look at them. Just remember, there prices are not set in stone. Say the store asks for $20. for a figure, offer him $17. & see if they go for it. Just like a flea market. Haggle.
As for online in Canada, I am not sure whats around. Never used it before. Most of my figures came from eBay & around town.
When I started, I went for the gusto. I started the hard ones first to get them out of the way. My first was Yak Face & he was $105. US. The odd figure in between working my way up. The last rare figure was the Vinyl Cape Jawa. The last regular figure was the R2-D2 with Sensorscope.
As for vehicles, I did them towards the end. My Droids A-Wing & Imperial Shuttle cost me $150. US each.
Lot figures are usually good for bulk figures with a lot of wear. Unless you find a Blue Snaggy in it you go for it. ;)
Always remember, if you get worn figures that you like, down the road you can always upgrade. Lord knows I have. ;D
And on another note, with the more experience you have on prices the better it will be to see an auction with a BIN that the seller has for a good low price. $90. US for a 12 back C-3PO was one of my best. ;)
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All the posts made already are excellent advise.I dont have much more to add except to echo the thoughts on patience.That is the key to Ebay.Keep your eyes peeled and I'm sure you will find a nice lot that you feel comfortable paying for in your range.If I run across anything I'll be sure to let you know..expecially if they are dealing with ewoks.(http://www.click-smilie.de/sammlung/aetsch/cheeky-smiley-021.gif)
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There is one more important factor with auctions, Always check the sellers feedback. Nice to see if the seller has a good reputation. If they have lots of negatives, stay away. Read the comments that have been made by other buyers.
Also take note that a seller can have a 100% positive feedback & yet something can still go wrong. eBay is nothing more than a GIANT garage sale.
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All the posts made already are excellent advise.I dont have much more to add except to echo the thoughts on patience.That is the key to Ebay.Keep your eyes peeled and I'm sure you will find a nice lot that you feel comfortable paying for in your range.If I run across anything I'll be sure to let you know..expecially if they are dealing with ewoks.(http://www.click-smilie.de/sammlung/aetsch/cheeky-smiley-021.gif)
actually that's the funny thing about this. I looked at the list and crossed off Ewoks as being necessary almost immediately. That'll save me some money right there. ;)
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Hello, I am going to tackle the task of collecting all loose vintage figures. Any leads would be appreciated.
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ebay is definitely the place to look. these forums are also a good place to look.
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F.E.L
Check the threads I've started recently. I'm in the exact same boat as you, just starting. We should try to communicate at least a little so we don't end up bumping up each other's bids. I'm in no hurry for most things, so I'm likely to yield on lots of things you're after.
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F.E.L
Check the threads I've started recently. I'm in the exact same boat as you, just starting. We should try to communicate at least a little so we don't end up bumping up each other's bids. I'm in no hurry for most things, so I'm likely to yield on lots of things you're after.
Will do - thanks. Please let me know if you see a good auction with stuff you have and don't need. Thanks!
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Can do. I have only 8 right now, so it won't happen often. Actually, I won six the other night and no response yet from seller. Aaaaargh.
Only thing I've really noted so far is I like auctions better that end during the week, not on weekends. ;)
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Only thing I've really noted so far is I like auctions better that end during the week, not on weekends. ;)
You are starting to learn well young ::) padawan. ;D
Auctions that end during the week I find are the best to look at. Mostly during the work hrs. Not alot of people have access to eBay with there work computers. Some companys do not allow certain sites to be accessed.
But do take note, there is the other side of the planet that there hrs are in the evening. Some auctions can be won by them.
As Brent mentioned Matthew, check the past posts made in the vinty section. There are a few secrets I have posted. ;)
Very nice to see other members getting involved in vintage collecting. 8) Just don't not go over what you plan to spend.
Now go out & win some Ewoks. ;D
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It's great to see more people taking up an interest in vintage ;) If I run across any extras then I'll post them in the trades section. Right now I only have a few ship parts on hand.......but I may have a duplicate Warok or Lumat around here somewhere.....
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It's great to see more people taking up an interest in vintage ;) If I run across any extras then I'll post them in the trades section. Right now I only have a few ship parts on hand.......but I may have a duplicate Warok or Lumat around here somewhere.....
Brian... before posting those available vintage figures remember you & I are still trying to work out a trade. Don't remember what it all entailed since it was over a month ago, but I know we were trying to work something out. So, keep me posted, OK buddy??? ;)
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Hello vintage experts!
Up until now I have been a modern-only collector. However, I was in my local indoor market today and they had a glass cabinet with a few vintage figures. Now, the one figure I really wanted when I was a kid, but could never find, was Chewbacca. Inside the cabinet, for GBP3.50, was the Wookiee I’d long been looking for. Out of nostalgia, I handed over the cash and walked out into the rain with a smile on my face. So my question is: do I have a complete figure? I was just wondering because the prices (most around £5 each, all (apart from the POTF stuff) under £10) seemed really cheap.
I’m happy with my Chewie so if his weapon is a repro, then I won’t be upset, BUT I’m beginning to wonder if this won’t set me off on a quest for an entire loose vintage collection – you know what us SW geeks are like…buy one, have to get the rest ;D .
So my other questions are: apart from a few exceptions, has the loose vintage market really got so cheap generally? Does collecting vintage get your youth back ;D? How well will the vintage figures compare with my modern collection – will I end up with something that looks second rate (I compared vintage Chewie to the Saga Cloud City version and it made me laugh ;D ), or are the any ways in which you think the old stuff is better?
Thanks for reading all my Qs, and here’s the pic of my Chewie. If there’s anything wrong with him, please tell me (I won’t be too upset because I’ll still like him regardless :) )
Cheers,
Rob :)
(http://mysite.freeserve.com/obi_robz/images/wookiee.jpg)
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The figure looks fine. The weapon looks good too but it is hard to tell by the picture if it is a reproduction. Try giving the weapon a little bent, if it does, its real & if its solid then its a fake.
The vintage figures do look much different than the modern figures. Remember, these came out in 1977 & the the way figures were made back then are not the same as they are today. There are vinty figures I do like better than the modern. A vinty Yak Face is way better than the new version IMO.
Take care of that Wookie. Not like Ralph Wiggum did! ;D
I bent my wookie (http://www.angelfire.com/ab/bentwookie/images/ralph3.wav)
(http://www.webcom.com/andyr/ralph/ralphfall.gif)
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It is bendy, but here’s a clearer picture:
(http://mysite.freeserve.com/obi_robz/images/chewiegun.jpg)
This whole vintage thing seems a bit daunting at the moment. Hopefully the gun’s original and I can cross Chewie off my “to get” list :)
Will there be certain figures though, where repro weapons are the only (economic) option?
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Here's mine front & back.
(http://www.telusplanet.net/public/djustus/Chewbacca%20Weapon.jpg)
I'm sure you can cross Chewy of your list. ;)
Will there be certain figures though, where repro weapons are the only (economic) option?
Sometimes they are. The hardest weapons to get are some from the POTF series.
Yak Face staff is the same as Nikto & Barada.
Amanaman Staff.
Wicket Staff.
Paploo Staff.
Rombo Spear.
Lumat & Warok Bow.
Sometimes when you look for vintage, you want the weapon to come with it to make it complete. The expensive ones are a little cheaper without there weapons but are tuff to find.
Best to save the $$$ when you get to that buying stage.
Original vintage weapons are pricey on the market. Everyone is looking for them & a small or large lots can go high.
As for the difference between Reproduction & Original weapons, there are differences. Its just not the plastic or resin they are made of. It will be the markings on the weapons such as a small circle missing or added to certain areas of the weapon. Color is sometimes different too.
I have seen some pictures of the difference's & will have to do some research to show you what to look for. That providing I can find anything. ;)
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Cross the chewie off. It is fine. The weapon looks to be fine from the pics and since it has give I wouldn't worry about it.
It looks to be a good find :)
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I by no means know nearly as much as others here, but as someone who has just been getting into vintage collecting slowly over the past year or two, I will echo their comments as well. Patience really is the key. When I first started collecting vintage loose, I was first replacing any ruined/played with figs from my childhood, and was a little anxious to get a few at first. But, after listening to advice from many of these same people, I did learn patience, and you can really find good deals on a lot of (if not most of) the figures (POTF are tougher I would think, I haven't gotten into those yet). Sometimes its also good to look at a seller's other items on ebay, that way you can get 3,4,5+ figures for the same shipping cost as 1 figure. Good luck on your collection!
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This is what I’ve picked up so far (although I have Han trench coat, Bib Fortuna, Dengar, Weequay, and an original gun for my Nien Nunb in the mail):
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/147364/vint.jpg)
I think Han and Lando’s guns might be repros (because they fail DSJ’s “bendy” test ), but I have friend over at RS who’s sending a guaranteed vintage gun for my Lando at least.
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Nice smiling Lando!! The other figs look nice too!
;D ;D ;D ;D
Scott
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Thanks, sp00ky :)
He also gave me a one-legged R2 that he couldn’t sell. When I got it out of the parcel I saw that sticker was in pretty good shape, so I went up to my attic, found the beat up R2 from my childhood, and “borrowed” his right leg :D Is this sort of "part swapping" socially acceptable in the world of vintage collecting? – or do I have to go out and find an all-original-parts R2?
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/147364/r2.jpg)
Nothing wrong with replacing missing parts. It looks good & so do the other figures. ;)
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Brent, before eBay I bought a lot of loose vintage through The Earth Toy Mall
They are all c9+ complete, no repros so you know you are getting a great figure. eBay can be a lottery in what you get, one person's c9 is totally different than mine. No price means they don't have one in stock
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/theearthtoys/loose-complete-figures.html
Another good option is Brian's Toys, they usually are around the same price as the Earth, maybe a tad higher especially on the commons
I'd second Dale's recommendation on picking up a Sansweet book, great info there!
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Another cool vintage collectible and a sister to the Wal-Mart poster, is the Tomart Vintage Poster that was a FC exclusive
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Just wanted to combine a few topics here into one sticky post at the top, a Vintage FAQ for noobs :-*
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Only thing I've really noted so far is I like auctions better that end during the week, not on weekends. ;)
That's definitely the best time to do your eBay shopping, because there aren't that many people who will be sniping on the auction of your dreams. 8)
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Scott (and others) are those prices from earthtoymall good? Should I be able to beat them on ebay or are they reasonably fair. I realize condition is a crap shoot with ebay so that's the big variable.
Lost auctions for original 12 and amanaman last night. Both failed to meet the reserve. :(
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I personally believe you can find the BEST deals either on eBay or at your local flea markets and garage sales.
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The prices on the earthtoymall look OK. The figures are in great condition Complete & non-complete & if you need some original weapons, the prices are fare & best of all, no repro's.
Yes, eBay is a crap shoot. There are figures that you can get cheaper but the condition may not be has described.
As for auctions with a reserve, I tend to stay away from them as the seller is protecting his investment & the resevre maybe high. Sometimes its not the case. I just feel reserve auctions are a waste of time IMO.
One of the best scores I have seen in along time was from a fellow member from Canmore, Jawa The Hut, (Brent).
He bid on an auction from down east & it included the first 12 figures & a Jawa with a plastic cape. He spent a few bucks on this auction. I think it was around $165. CDN. He showed me the auction & ask if the Jawa was real. It was hard to tell from the picture. He received the figures & a few months later, Brent came to Edmonton to visit & he brought the Jawa so we could look at it. After we hit some stores here, I took a look at it then mentioned that Shane will have to look at it too. At that time, I did not tell him what I thought of it. Shane took the cape off & used a magnifying glass to get a real good look at the cape.
Well low & behold, thats French for high & behind, ;D the Jawa was Real. A very nice Vinyl Cape Jawa. He was very excited on the score. :o
So some auctions can be Gold then again....
As Chris mentioned, check the flee markets, garage sales. People just want to get rid of the stuff & you can haggle. ;)
Your choice though.
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Flea Markets in Winnipeg suck, plain and simple. There are seldom any vintage figures available. Worse, most of the recent influx of Winnipegers over at snowtroopers.ca are all enthralled with one guy there that sells stuff. Jason is his name and he is the single largest scalper in town. They all rant and rave how he has stuff and stores never do. well duh, that's because he and his buddies hit Walmart and TRU right at opening all the time. And these guys think it's great. I got a trilogo Jango from him and no stores had it!!!! ::) >:( Aaargh, that's because he was at the store before you and just charged you $5 for his effort. [/rant]
Garage sales are tough too. Sometimes you find stuff, but I find the quality to be really low and almost never any weapons. Plus after driving all week for work (~1000 km or more) the last thing I want to do on a Saturday is get out of bed and get into the car. Lazy yes, but I like mail delivery ;D
I guess essentially what I'm saying is for a couple more bucks, I'd eliminate the risk and effort.
As regards the reserve auctions, yeah, protecting their investment is about it. And I don't blame them a bit. Looking at the Amanaman on that page that Scott linked at $99 bucks, $52 for complete with staff and coin and card seemed pretty cool. But it didn't meet the reserve so no go. No harm really as I maintain I am in no rush. 8)
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Just scored a copy of the action figure archive from Amazon.com for $9.98 ;D
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Just scored a copy of the action figure archive from Amazon.com for $9.98 ;D
You dumbhead Brent! :P I've got several copies that I got for free as part of a TRU promotion last year. Can you cancel your order still? I'll send you a copy for free in my next package to you if you can... I had them up in my trading list for quite a while, but seem to have recently deleted them from there for some reason... :-\
Great book! Just wish they'd make an update of it, but Sansweet keeps saying it ain't gonna happen... :'(
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I'll send you a copy for free in my next package to you if you can...
Matt, care to send one of those for free in my package? ;D
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Nope, can't cancel it but thanks very much for the generous offer Matt. It's that cheap, relatively speaking, because it's coming from one of their secondary stores. I checked and I am out of luck.
Maybe Jim would like another copy. Or, if yours is the hardcover version, I wouldn't mind having one of those. I'd even buy it. I have the softcover version coming.
Just my luck ::)
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Here's at site showing the figures on all sides & anything else that came with them. Just scroll down till you see Thumbnail Gallery, click & there will be Thumbnails of the figures. Just click on the figure you want & you can enlarge it for a better look. Enjoy!
Action Figure Showcase (http://rogue-collection.50megs.com/showcase.htm)
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That’s the best resource for new collectors I’ve seen posted so far – thanks, DSJ!
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That's an awesome site! I just finished downloading all the different wallpapers... very cool!
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I like the site too. It has everything I need to look at & a very nice setup! 8)
Glad you guys like it. :)
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Now this would have been the way to go (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3153812470&category=50281) :o
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What, no Vinyl Cape Jawa or R2-D2 wind-up! ;D :-*
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Yeah, but that would have been about all that you had to chase. Well, that and Vlix.
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Well that auction went up a few beans! :o
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Wow, average price of 16 per fig. Steep for some, bargain for others.
Most of the last 17 he indicated were taken from bubbles on bad cards, so should be prime condition. Still a big outlay of cash, but wouldn't it be nice to get one shipment with the Last 17, blue snaggletooth and everything else complete :o
BTW, is jedi Luke supposed to have a blue saber or a green saber? I presume he was released with both.
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You are correct on the Jedi luke although the Blue saber version is valued higher
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BTW, is jedi Luke supposed to have a blue saber or a green saber? I presume he was released with both.
Yes, both. There is also a difference in the robe that came out. This is from our JD checklist on vintage variations:
Luke Skywalker (Jedi Knight Outfit) - NO. 70650
___ green lightsaber, robe w/sewn collar & packaged straight behind and under Luke, no green flap
Variations:
___ green lightsaber, robe w/snap-on collar & straight behind and under Luke, no green flap
___ green lightsaber, robe is sewn, behind & to the R. side of Luke, under small green flap
___ green lightsaber, robe is snap-on, behind & to the R. side of Luke, under small green flap
___ blue lightsaber, robe is sewn, behind & to the R. side of Luke, no small green flap
___ blue lightsaber, robe is snap-on, behind & to the R. side of Luke, no small green flap
It's worth checking out the list Brent. Very interesting stuff in there. ;) Alot of work our Thomas has done! 8)
JD Checklist (http://www.jedidefender.com/checklists.php)
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Indeed. thanks for the list Dale. The only problem I have is the main page crashes my computer at home ??? and since Dell seemed to ramp up the prices for the Christmas rush, I won't be getting a new one until later, probably next spring. The problem is not unique to JD, Galactichunter and RS have both done the same thing. Killertoys is another site that, well, kills me. At work, I try to limit the surfing. They do watch, so too many clicks engenders a nasty email. Plus we've now got new people at the top, so they might be looking at "re-organizing".
I actually have two Jedi Lukes, one complete, one missing a gun. The paint jobs on the face are dramatically different. The Taiwan (1983) fig has much more face paint for the features than does the Hong Kong (1983) version. Both have the green light saber. Both robes appear to be sewn.
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I wanted to thank everyone for this thread, and for the advice in these forums. I am admittedly a vintage novice, but am slowly working towards getting a loose, complete set of the first 77 figures. After that, who knows, maybe the rest of the figures, or maybe on to vehicles. Although I really enjoy the modern stuff (especially with the 2004 stuff coming out, OT heavy), vintage is just so much fun to collect, and really takes me back. I can still remember when and where I found a few of my favorite vintage figs on the pegs (actually on the pegs, not ordered online like today :P) Anyways, getting somewhat caught up with some modern stuff, and scaling back on prequel stuff right now has given me the opportunity to get back to some vintage collecting, and I appreciate all of the knowledge I gain from you guys here in the forum. Thanks!
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Duh, is the gun that comes with blue snaggletooth the same gun that comes with red snags? Just curious ;)
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Yes. :-*
Blasters (http://www.rebelscum.com/vintaccblasters.asp)
Pistols & Rifles (http://www.loresdelsith.net/rincon/armeria/index2.htm)
Red & Blue Snaggletooth (http://www.rebelscum.com/VINtSnaggletooth.asp)
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Excellent....thank you.
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Not a problem. ;)
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I'm sure this has probably been anwered elsewhere on the forums but how do you go about cleaning vintage stuff? A few of the items I've received lately, notably my rebel transport and original 12 display have some considerably aged dust and some yellowing as well. I'm not sure the yellowing will come off, especially on the white transport, but will it off the grey display?
I don't want to experiment with any cleaners on this stuff :o
BTW, my EV-9D9 came in and the head that was reported to be loose isn't, though the left arm falls off pretty darn easily. Only overcharged for shipping by $5 ::)
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Brent,
From what I have read, most collectors recommend using soap and warm water. You can use a soft tip toothbrush (make sure it is a super soft tip). I use Lysol wipes then armoral wipes to shine up my figures. No problems whatsoever. I am not aware of a process to reverse the yellowing.
The arm issue is extremelly common on EV so I would not worry about that.
-Fish-
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I agree with Matt, soap & warm water, a soft tip toothbrush & a little TLC will clean them. I also use Q-Tips.
Reversing the yellowing, ahh no. Its there for life & Plasti-Dip will not even help! Right Scott! ;) ;D
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Wow, I've been looking for a forum like this for quite awhile, I have been collecting again for six months, although I had a good start as I had all of my childhood collection intact, Mainly started to upgrade and became addicted. anyway. I have discovered that letting your figures and soiled parts soak in a mega dose oxyclean and water works miracles, I dare say it will make a yellow figure a shade whiter, but its probably self deception on my part. It will also remove ink, stage blood, and whatever else little whipper snappers tortured their figures with if you have the patience and want to scrub judiciously. I removed red stains from a land of the jawas playset base that soap and water would not touch. Just this evening I soaked a survival kit backpack that was almost black with worn in grime, one that soap and water did nothing to, and it looks almost as good as new! I forgot, it does wonders on soiled/stained cloaks as well, I have a royal guard that the colors were brought out amazingly. GREAT STUFF.
WARNING: dont soak a rancor keeper, his belly will fill with water, also make sure to rinse with normal water a few times , or oxyclean residue will show up as dry flakes, they do brush off however.
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Although I'm not sure when I will dive into it, I have always wanted to get a small collection of vintage carded figures. I know I couldn't afford to do the entire line (unless Hasbro would stop making stuff, and I'd have more collectibles income to go towards this area), so for now I'd just like to slowly work towards getting some of the "main" characters. I still have a ways to go on my loose collection as well, but thought I'd maybe save here and there and try to pick up a carded figure every so often. The one I want to start with is Han Solo, probably the Bespin or Endor version. I'd kind of like to get them on the movie card that they are actually from, but maybe sometimes it is cheaper to say do a Bespin Han on a ROTJ card. Anyways, what is the best route to take for someone starting out? Is ebay the best way to go for carded figures? Any tips for a newbie?
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well, my carded collection is small. what i basically did was search ebay, and just pick up whatever i can afford. i think i have about 20 carded figures so far. most of them, with a few exceptions, are not on the greatest of cards. but someday, i'll "upgrade" the not so good ones, when i find better versions at affordable prices.
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I am not new to vintage collecting, I just dabble. Does that count?
I have some carded unpunched 12 backs, a few boxed playsets, but no loose figs yet. It is nice to see so much info & advice in the forums. :D
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As I was packing up my vinty collection, I was updating my inventory of it. I'm not going to see it much in the next while between packing and moving and then not having a room for display for a bit. Anyway, here's the list of what I own. I thought this thread appropriate since it started a while back ;)
Vintage figure list
Unless otherwise indicated, limbs are tight
1. Luke Skywalker farm boy blonde hair - complete - check saber
2. Luke Skywalker farm boy brown hair - complete
3. Princess Leia - repro weapon need original
4. R2-D2 - upgrade only to mint
5. Chewbacca - need to upgrade, bowcaster original
6. Chewbacca green limbs - need bowcaster
7. C-3PO - shiny, tight limbs
8. Darth Vader - mint
9. Stormtrooper - 3, all clean, none dead mint - weapons all original
10. Han Solo large head - mint, original black blaster
11. Han Solo small head - good, slightly yellow sleeves, original blaster
12. Ben (Obi-Wan) Kenobi gray hair - mint
13. Ben (Obi-Wan) Kenobi white hair - slight hair loss at front, still nice
14. Sand People regular - have near mint upgrade, complete and good second, dirty cape
15. Sand People hollow tubes - complete
16. Jawa cloth cape - mint, need blaster
17. Jawa vinyl cape - Got It! 8)
18. Death Squad Commander - slight belt wear, blaster original
19. Greedo - mint except for slight paint loss to white of left eye, blaster original
20. Walrusman - great except for slight paint loss to mouth (pink), blaster original
21. Hammerhead - mint, blaster original
22. Snaggletooth red - limbs tight, but paint loss to toes (nails), blaster original
23. Luke Skywalker X-wing pilot - good, paint loss to hand, helmet dirty, blaster original - should upgrade
24. R4-D4 - very good, hard to upgrade from ebay
25. Death Star Droid - POS, need upgrade with tight limbs, better paint
26. Power Droid - tiny amount of paint loss various, legs click, very good
27. Boba Fett - near mint, blaster original
28. Luke Skywalker Bespin blonde hair - mint, original blue blaster, original saber
29. Luke Skywalker Bespin brown hair - loose right arm, some paint rubs, blaster original, saber repro
30. Han Solo Hoth outfit - good, paint loss to hands (minor), blaster original
31. Leia Organa Bespin Gown low collar - very nice, original blaster
32. Leia Organa Bespin Gown turtleneck - slight nose rub, otherwise good, original blaster
33. Bossk - mint, original blaster
34. Bossk green limbs - fair, lots of wear, need blaster but no need to upgrade figure
35. IG-88 - mint, both original weapons
36. Rebel Soldier (Hoth) - mint, very tight limbs, need blaster
37. FX-7 - very nice
38. Imperial Stormtrooper (Hoth Battle Gear) - mint, tight limbs, slight yellowing of torso, head, blaster original
39. Lando Calrissian smiling - mint, blaster original
40. Lando Calrissian - excellent but for paint loss on left index finger, blaster original
41. Bespin Security Guard - nice, paint a little dull, original blaster, Fu Manchu
42. Yoda orange snake - complete, light green skin, snake, belt cane original
43. Yoda brown snake - dark green skin, belt, snake original, need dark brown cane44. Leia Hoth outfit - mint original blaster
45. Rebel commander - mint original blaster
46. AT-AT Driver - near mint, original weapon x2
47. 2-1 B - left arm slightly loose, otherwise mint, weapon original
48. Imperial Commander - near mint, blaster original
49. Ugnaught purple smock - mint, case original
50. Ugnaught blue smock - need
51. Lobot - mint, original blaster
52. Dengar - near mint, original rifle
53. Han Solo Bespin Outfit - some paint loss, could use upgrade
54. See-Threepio removeable limbs - mint in Kenner baggie
55. R2-D2 with sensorscope - mint, tight limbs, head clicks, sensor up and down smoothly
56. Luke Skywalker Hoth gear - near mint, original rifle
57. AT-AT commander - near mint, original blaster
58. Cloud Car Pilot - near mint complete accessories
59. Bespin Security Guard black - mint, original blaster
60. Zuckuss - mint, original rifle
61. 4-LOM - mint, original weapon
62. Imperial Tie Fighter Pilot - good, some paint wear on chest, original weapon.
63. Admiral Ackbar - dead mint from card
64. Gamorrean Guard - mint, original weapon
65. Luke Skywalker Jedi Knight green saber sewn collar - mint, original weapons
66. Luke Skywalker Jedi Knight blue saber snap collar - dead mint from card
67. Princess Leia Organa Boussh Disguise - mint, original
68. Emperor’s Royal Guard - mint, original
69. Chief Chirpa - red spotting on back of arm, otherwise good, need weapon
70. Logray - mint, complete except for shaman staff
71. Logray Macau - mint complete
72. Klaatu - dead mint from card
73. Weequay - mint complete
74. Rebel Commando - mint but for small black mark on right leg, tight limbs, original weapon
75. General Madine - mint complete
76. Lando Calrissian Skiff Guard disguise - very good, limbs not completely tight, complete
77. Biker Scout long mouth - 2; one good, some paint loss; second dead mint from card
78. Biker Scout short mouth - do not have
79. Nien Nunb - mint, complete from card
80. Squid Head - mint complete
81. Ree-Yees - dead mint from card (2)
82. Bib Fortuna - very minor paint loss on fingers, complete
83. Nikto - mint, complete
84. 8D8 - dead mint from card
85. Princess Leia Organa combat poncho - mint, complete
86. Wicket W. Warrick - mint, complete
87. The Emperor - very good, but small scrape on nose!
88. Klaatu - mint complete
89. B-wing pilot - dead mint from card
90. AT-ST Driver - very good, minor rub to left shoulder emblem, complete
91. Han Solo trench coat plain collar - dead mint from card
92. Han Solo trench coat camouflage collar - mint, complete
93. Teebo - mint complete need battle ax
94. Prune Face - mint complete light green pants
95. Rancor Keeper - mint, complete
96. Lumat - mint, complete
97. Paploo - mint, complete
98. Romba - mint, complete
99. Luke Skywalker battle poncho - mint complete
100. R2-D2 with pop up light saber - mint, complete
101. Amanaman - mint, complete with coin
102. Barada - mint, complete
103. Imperial Gunner - mint, complete
104. Luke Skywalker Imperial stormtrooper outfit - mint, complete
105. Han Solo in carbonite chamber - mint, complete
106. EV-9D9 - good; left arm comes off; head loose but poseable; I’ll live with it
107. Warok - mint complete
108. Anakin Skywalker - mint complete
109. A-Wing Pilot - very good, tiny paint loss to chest silver, complete
110. Lando Calrissian General Pilot - mint, complete
111. Yak Face - mint, complete
112. Imperial Dignitary - mint, complete
113. Blue Snaggletooth - tiny paint loss to front and back of boots, no weapon, otherwise great
114. Jabba the Hutt with Salacious Crumb - mint, complete except for chain
115. Max Rebo - very good, complete, paint fading to arms
116. Sy Snootles - mint, complete, silver microphone
117. Droopy McCool - mint, complete, silver microphone
Droids
119. R2-D2 - dead mint from card
120. C-3PO - excellent condition, limbs moderately loose
121. Thall Joben - dead mint from card
122. Jord Dusat - dead mint from card
123. Kea Moll - need
124. Kez Iban - need
125. Uncle Gundy - dead mint from card
126. Jann Tosh - in transit
127. Tig Fromm - loose limbs, have repro weapon
128. Sise Fromm - need
Ewoks
129. King Gorneesh - mint complete
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I'm thinking about going into vintage Power of the Force Collecting, does anyone have a checklist of all of the POTF figures?
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Power of the Force, Droids, Ewoks, Coins Checklist (http://www.jedidefender.com/checklists/normal/potf.php)
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Thanks man. Which ones from power of the force are the least expensive carded? I'd like to start with those, and then take on the more expensive ones.
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Prices vary from time to time, eBay sets the standards. Best to check completed auctions to find the price ranges. Just go to the "Search Options" on the left side & check completed listings.
Power of the Force 1985 (http://toys.listings.ebay.com/Vintage-1977-89_Power-of-the-Force-1985_W0QQfromZR4QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQsacatZ52334QQsocmdZListingItemList)
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Thanks mate, will do. :)
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OK, no longer new, but starting to venture where I shouldn't go, so I have a rules/etiquette question regarding the removal of stickers and residue from vintage cardbacks.
I noticed John's post about the IG-88(?) he won and he removed the sticker residue from the price sticker and the offer sticker as well. I had assumed this sort of stuff was generally frowned upon by the purists of the collecting community. The 12-back C-3PO I just won is a very nice piece it seems (pictures so far, not received yet) but it has an ugly ass price sticker on it. Can I remove it without incurring the wrath of the gods, or should it stay as is?
Curious.
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My 2¢: Leave it on.
Personally, I like the card to look like it actually was on the store shelves rather than the pristine hermetically stored looking versions that never saw the light of day let alone the aisle of your local K-Mart, ShopKo or mom & pop general store.
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I know of no rules/etiquette on this but to each his own. I say you do what you want to do, whether it be a 3PO card or an 8D8 card, not a biggie. Like Jayson mentioned some will like them like they were back in the day & others will like them they way they want them. Heck I remember on RS someone that removed one of those big assed stickers off a trilogo because they did not like it. I have some cards with stickers & they will stay, my preference.
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i removed one once before on an esb cloud car pilot and had my ass ridden for a week about it on rebelscum. i have always been torn by these stickers. they were clearly put on in an unprofessional manner, usually blocking most of the character photo. but, they are an official promo sticker and thus a part of the complete packaging.
i regret taking the sticker off the cloud car pilot. it didn't block any of the picture, and was probably 1 of only a few hundred like it. the 8d8 on the other hand was just one of a zillion like it.
as for price tags, i think pretty much everyone would agree that it is fair game to take those off.
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I've had a few loose vintage figures for a couple years, but I've never bothered to put them anywhere. But the other day, I got a few vintage deals while I was on vacation in Oregon ($1.95 each), and now that I'm home, I'm inspired to put together a display, and then perhaps get into loose vintage collecting, until I eventually have a complete set. Any tips?
What I have now:
Chewbacca (loose, complete, pristine)
Power Droid (loose, complete, pristine)
Walrusman (loose, complete, pristine)
Han Solo, Hoth Outfit (loose, missing weapon, very minor paint wear on gloves and boots)
IG-88 (loose, complete, pristine)
Bossk (loose, missing weapon, very minor paint wear on hands)
Lando Calrissian, ESB (loose, missing weapon, pristine)
Ree-Yees (loose, missing weapon, pristine)
Admiral Ackbar (loose, complete, pristine)
It's not much but it's a start. :-\
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Congrats on getting into vintage, it sounds like you're off to a great start with some figures in very nice condition.
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Thanks, JesseVader, getting into vintage should be fun. A challenge, but fun.
I've gotten a couple new figures since my last post. My little sister bought me a Hammerhead at some store for a buck. He has a little white paint that is outside of his eye but nothing I can't fix. Other than that, he looks great, but I still will have to track down his weapon. I also bought a super cheap Weequay off eBay yesterday for something like five bucks. From the pictures, he looks terrific and has his weapons. I'm excited to get him, even though he's not the rarest vintage figure around, he's just one more good figure towards my goal of all of them. :)
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Welcome aboard.
My advice is to start by looking for lots of mint complete figures (and by lots of course, I mean a lot as in more than one in one auction :) ) - if you find the right lot you can do very well.
I started with a lot of 13 ROTJ figures for $45 or so. All had weapons and all were in great shape. Eventually it gets harder to find a lot that has only stuff you still need, that's when I started looking for individual figure sales.
Also, you can save a fortune cleaning things up. My Leia - as perfect as could be, cost me about $9 because it was a little dirty in the pictures.
Learn how to spot repro weapons, if that's important to you.
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Yup good haul Robo Quack, I am just getting into it myself, I only have 28 figures but at least I am on the road to the Vintage Mecca.
As people have said use E-Bay, dont bid straight away wait till the end then bid (well this is what I have found out), best time to get the figures is usually middle of the week or middle of the afternoon when people arent checking as much.
Also like Rob said clean the figures up, its surprising how nice they can get, I use hot water and denture cleaner to clean mine, drop a tablet or 2 in the hot water and then dip the figure (obviously dont use this method on astromech droids, the stickers dont like it, also dont dip carded figures into the solution, lol) and then use a very soft bristled tootbrush to give it a scrub (dont scrub to heavy, you want light strokes but make sure it contacts with the figure), also remember to use a wet rag or something soft and wet to clean of the residue, then finally wipe clean with dry rag.
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Although I haven't yet finished my loose vintage collection, I've also been looking at carded figures every so often on ebay as well. Although I'll likely never be able to afford to get a complete run or anything like that, I wouldn't mind getting a few of my favorites over time. Anyways, the first figure I've really been looking at is a Han Solo. I've specifically been looking at the ROTJ Endor Han, since that was my favorite figure as a kid, and have good nostalgia for both the figure and cardback. Anyways, to my question, I know next to nothing about vintage carded collecting and I'm unsure of what to look for as far as fakes, reseals, etc. Just as an example, here is one I have been watching on ebay:
ROTJ Han Solo (In Trench Coat) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=180351365981)
Now, I know it obviously isn't in perfect condition either, but price is a big consideration for me as well. Just curious if anyone could give me some advice on things to look for (whether on this figure in particular, or on vintage carded in general). Thanks so much for any help.
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When I've shopped for mine, I tend to buy from sellers who've completed a lot of transations and have near perfect feedback.
Another thing to do is search for completed sales of the item you're looking for to see the kinds of price range you're looking to be in. It'll help you from over paying or underpaying for something that might not be what it says it is.
I think that auction you're watching looks to be a good one and I think that's a fair price for that particular jacket version of the Endor Han.
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Anyways, the first figure I've really been looking at is a Han Solo. I've specifically been looking at the ROTJ Endor Han. Anyways, to my question, I know next to nothing about vintage carded collecting and I'm unsure of what to look for as far as fakes, reseals, etc. Just as an example, here is one I have been watching on ebay:
you picked a pretty good figure to be your favorite. endor han is one of the cheaper main characters you can get carded. it is pretty hard to find one without a yellow bubble though. if that is a problem, be prepared to pay alot more.
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I can see I'll be spending a lot of time in here. ;D
I have caught the vintage collecting bug BAD in the past few weeks. I was a dedicated collector in my younger days and then lost interest around the time Kenner went under.
I got back into the whole thing with the first Clone Wars animated series. (Tartakovsky = brilliant) From there I morphed seamlessly into the CGI CW merchandise. I have pretty much everything CW related that is currently available, so my interest soon gravitated back to the original Kenner swag.
Luckily most of my early collection survived, with the exception of a few vehicles and playsets, so after a quick review I found I only needed about 18 more figs for a complete collection. And with that, the hunt was on.
Luckily eBay and I are old friends, so I have not had much trouble scoring the remainders so far. I can already see Yak Face will the the last to pick up. Even loose that mother is pricey!
I do have a question about "repro" weapons - I often see this noted in auction listings. Are these vintage era weapons from other figures being substituted or post-80's reproductions, like from the "Saga" re-releases?
I try to steer clear of anything that isn't 100% authentic or complete, but I'm still curious what that REPRO tag implies.
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I can see I'll be spending a lot of time in here. ;D
I have caught the vintage collecting bug BAD in the past few weeks. I was a dedicated collector in my younger days and then lost interest around the time Kenner went under.
I got back into the whole thing with the first Clone Wars animated series. (Tartakovsky = brilliant) From there I morphed seamlessly into the CGI CW merchandise. I have pretty much everything CW related that is currently available, so my interest soon gravitated back to the original Kenner swag.
Luckily most of my early collection survived, with the exception of a few vehicles and playsets, so after a quick review I found I only needed about 18 more figs for a complete collection. And with that, the hunt was on.
Luckily eBay and I are old friends, so I have not had much trouble scoring the remainders so far. I can already see Yak Face will the the last to pick up. Even loose that mother is pricey!
I do have a question about "repro" weapons - I often see this noted in auction listings. Are these vintage era weapons from other figures being substituted or post-80's reproductions, like from the "Saga" re-releases?
I try to steer clear of anything that isn't 100% authentic or complete, but I'm still curious what that REPRO tag implies.
Anytime you see REPRO in an auction with a loose vintage figure, the weapon you're receiving was NOT made in the 70's or 80's, but around the early to mid 90's and are not considered original. Most REPRO weapons will sink if put in a glass or water or make a "tingy" sound when dropped on a hard surface. Originals float in water, will not make that sound, and are in much higher demand then their 90's versions. The REPRO weapons are often easy to spot to the trained eye and some are even off on the colors. For example, some repro blasters are dark grey when they should be black or blue.
The Saga weapons are actually larger in size and are very easy to spot. I would recommend staying away from ebay for loose figure purchases with any dealer that has REPRO in the description or even sells lots of weapons by themselves. Some dealers include the phrase, "weapons and accessories that come with these figures may or may not be reproductions", somewhere near the end of their description which keeps them out of trouble with ebay.
James
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Thanks for the info, that is great to know!
I have tried to be pretty selective about the loose figs I am picking up, most are from reputable dealers with 100% feedback and have detailed descriptions and photos. I have definitely noticed a few auctions that seem intentionally vague out there.
Last stupid question - what kind of a grading scale is being used on these things? I see lots of C10 and C9.5 but I have no idea what those points correspond to. Is it some kind of AFA standard?
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Thanks for the info, that is great to know!
I have tried to be pretty selective about the loose figs I am picking up, most are from reputable dealers with 100% feedback and have detailed descriptions and photos. I have definitely noticed a few auctions that seem intentionally vague out there.
Last stupid question - what kind of a grading scale is being used on these things? I see lots of C10 and C9.5 but I have no idea what those points correspond to. Is it some kind of AFA standard?
That's a whole other story altogether. One person's idea of C9 may be different from yours. If they hold the figure by the head and shake it slightly and the limbs don't wobble, they may consider it C9. Upon further inspection though, it may have slight paint wear, factory paint overspray, or marks on the inner parts of the arms or legs.
I believe C10 figures DO NOT EXIST. There is always a flaw with a figure like the ones mentioned above. I've even seen ones opened from cut cards with marks on them from rubbing against the bubble or a mark probably made prior to leaving the conveyor to the bubble attachment area. Very few have ever graded AFA 100 and those sell for astronomical(and not worth it IMHO)prices.
There's not a universal grading system per say, but mostly what you decide you're willing to settle for as far as your own grading standard. Some collectors prefer figures minty ones in case they have to sell them sometime in the future. Others just want to display them in dioramas or give them to their kids to play with. In the latter case, it also keeps your kids attention away from "Daddy's Toys" in the house. ;)
If you are looking for high grade figures. You might be better off buying ones on beat up cards and opening them. GASP! :o I know some of you are shocked right now with me saying this, but I've seen everything from a POTF R2 Pop Up Saber to a ESB red Sanggletooth opened in front of me after I sold them to people who wanted minty figures and hated AFA. On the other hand, cut and damaged cards have lately brought higher prices since AFA collectors are sending them in to get the "U" or uncirculated grades. These add a premium price and spawned a whole new breed of collectors.
I do have lots of vintage figures available(loose and MOC) so if you're looking for certain ones, feel free to send me a PM and I can see what I can do for you. I'm also listed on Rebelscum under the same name if you need references or feedback.
James
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While I still have all of my vintage figures from when I was a kid, I have still either yet to uncover the box of my old playsets/vehicles in my parents' basement or it was thrown out years ago...
Either way, I have been hesitant to fill-in my own perceived "gaps" in the modern line with items from the vintage line for the primary reason that there's always a chance that ONE DAY Hasbro may update/re-release a vintage item. The updated Cloud Car prototype that recently came to light is evidence of this and I now find myself glad I never tried to track down a vintage Cloud Car to give my OTC Cloud Car pilots something to drive.
I have picked up a couple mini-rigs like the ISP-6, Endor Forest Ranger & Desert Sail Skiff - but I again I didn't want to go too crazy with those since they too may be updated one day.
One area though that probably will never be updated though is the playsets. One playset in particular that I'm interested in is the Dagobah playset.
I had this set as a kid and I remember my "bog" foam turning to a mush-like paste and I think at that point I threw my playset out (wish I could go back in time and stop myself, but oh well).
Is this set still worth getting? What (if anything) should I keep an eye out for if I'm looking to acquire a set on eBay? If I can find a set that is 100% complete and 100% in mint condition except the "bog" foam is gone/decayed, is there a solution for replacing that foam?
Any advice/help seasoned vintage collectors are willing to provide would be most appreciated.
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Everyone's collecting habits are their own, but I personally would never want to fill in gaps with anything modern, as they're just not the same, no matter whether they're made from the same or similar molds, etc. The appeal for collecting vintage to me is that they're the toys I had as a kid (or at least lusted after as a kid). Modern stuff is fun, too, but I don't look at them as interchangeable.
As far as the Dagobah playset, there are definitely sources out there for replacement foam, both specifically made for that set, as well as just general uses. Good luck!
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Yep, I am in the process of completing my vintage playset run right now. I lost all of the cardboard backdrops and somehow missed 1 or 2 of those altogether. (Cloud City?!?!)
If you scan through some of the older threads in this forum, there is a wealth of information to be found. I know I have read about the decaying foam issue before. There is replacement foam available, but it is not the same as the vintage stuff, so to me it is a poor substitute. You might check around on eBay, I believe I have run across some on there.
I have the same problem with the foam in my Death Star trash compactor. It literally crumbles in your hand if you touch it now.
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Weird. My Death Star foam is in perfect shape (it's original, and had since age 6, os iknow it' the fam tat came wt it originally). The Dagoba foam is another story.
Side note, I jut found an old board game called "Press ups". it has 4 pieces of foam on the bottom...they are exactly like the foam in the Dagobah set as it almost disinegrates on touch. You can pinch it between your fingers and it presses together into alomst nothing. Best way I can explain.